Is the pvp still pretty active on ATL?
If you consider big fights to be usually 8pm-3am pretty active then that's what it is. The entire day though up until night it's dead in Fel Yew.
Is it competitive? There are really only a few guilds. Everyone is Faction, even if they claim to eventually go non they are still faction. All of SL regardless of guild pretty much work together. Then you have Minax that doesn't always work together. TB Seems to. CoM I think sometimes does. GOD or TF+R seem to be the most action you will get out of fel yew. They usually don't go there alone though, will usually be 2 or more of them. Then sometimes you will get the occasional MM that will come in numbers to fel yew.
Are non-SW mages viable again? Sure, just carry a ton of cure potions because ever since they buffed poisoning thats all everyone uses now.
Is everyone running around with gimp templates? Theres a lot of ninja wolf form gargoyle throwers... Lots of fencer/archers... Mystic Mages... Some necro mages... Scribe nox mages (not really gimp though).
Is there still a pure mage duel scene? Not really, anymore it's all about ganks and if your solo well then good luck having any fun in fel yew or raiding (if anyone even bothers with spawns?)
Does putting a decent pvp suit together cost an arm and a leg still?
Nope, that's the only nice thing. You can build a suit pretty cheap now but once it's built i'm pretty sure if you're used to the pvp back in the day then anymore you will get borred pretty quickly. The current pvp state is definatelly NOT what it used to be, and it just keeps getting worse. Not so much the pvp in the game, but the fact that there's a lot less people willing to pvp now doesn't make it as fun. I just made a thread the other day requesting guilds to war a guild and we have not recieved a single request if that says anything. Chaos/Order and waring guilds basically dead. Stealing faction sigils, pointless... Faction point system, broken. I'm actually looking at other options right now to fulfill my enjoyment out of video games.
If you find out you enjoy UO though don't let me spoil the milk for you, eventually i'll bet that you'll realize it is what it is and you have two options. To play or get out and put your time to better use then sitting around WAITING for people to fight. After all, anymore it's really screwed up in a sense that you need to almost pick people off from the group of players there huddled around in fel yew. I know for a fact though that GOD does not pvp in fel yew solo, TF+R usually doesnt, MM usually doesn't, HEAT actually does, TAGZ im not real sure about. You really have to play and realize this for yourself, I understand anyone can derail this thread but the fact is once you login and see for yourself you will realize what i've said isn't far from the truth.
BTW all this information is coming from someone who spends 2-3 hours a day in fel yew 7 days a week. I can't remember the last time I checked fire and actually got a good fight. The pvp guilds out there that are good, I don't know what keeps them logging in everyday. It's gotta get borring fighting the exact same 10-15 people day after day. I actually pvp on TC1 and Atlantic, waiting for character copy to come back up though so I can get back on TC1. Sometimes though there will be times when Test shard AND Atlantic are both dead in fel yew. It's sad but that's the truth for ya. I'm looking into EVE Online.