Could I get some advice from the pros in this?

[Ning]

Earlier today I got hooked up with a couple pre patch Whiteys by a RL friend that quit years ago. I'd like to train them after they bond and I really don't want to eff it up. I feel confident finally to tackle training my pp mare which I'll train tomorrow. Thanks to the cah step by step guide it seems easy enough.

Could you guys please tell me the best way to train these guys? I'm mostly just a casual farmer with an aversion to getting dead so I'm not exactly going to try and solo crazy stuff. Of course I was also heavy into doing crazy stuff in my heyday so I do have it in me. LoL

Thank you very much.

 

[celticus]

Blizzard is very good due to overcap STR of 760, and not too high cold res. Make sure they are 3-slot before you start training them.
The spec that would make these, esp Blizzard shine, is CHIV/AI. Train similar to 3 slot Cus, and there is a very nice thread in tamer forum by @Pawain written a lill while back, but still valid. Build the base stuff, and allow enough training points spare, so that you can all PS 120 these nice pets, when you are able to get the 120's. Make quadruple sure that max damage is maxed also. Go over the thread a couple of times before you touch WWs. The same goes for the PP mare.

====> By the way you may want to copy character and stable to TC1 test server, and test train there FIRST to check point allocation and training. Then if you made a mistake, just delete everything there and re-copy the tamer there, no harm done.<====

Also there is another player @Khaelor who made a website that answers a lot of these questions, and there you can theory craft different pets. The website is uo-cah.com and it is actually incredibly beautiful work. We all use it for theory crafting pets, putting different skills on diff. pets etc. Most highly recommended.
@Pawain 's posts take you step by step through the process of training and lists some of the most important points, and it is a must-read esp. when it comes to valuable pets like your PP WW's and PP mare.
Don't be in a hurry to train them. Learn the process well first so you will not regret the results later.
Congats for aquiring these 3 pets and GL to you.

 

[Ang7]

Agreed. Chiv and armor ignore on a 760 str pp ww is the way to go. I have one fully scrolled and trained with 758 str and it does armor ignores for over 350 dmg sometimes.

Training is almost exactly like you would do a Cu. Sometimes parrying doesn’t show up when you are adding scrolls because wrestling is not at 100. That messes people up if they forget they didn’t scroll parrying yet and use up the points.

I normally adjust hp and mana last to make sure I don’t miss anything. Just double and triple check you hit all the needed areas before you add points to hp and mana.

I would suggest using UO-cah because the planner is great. Do all your building there and save it. Then you know the exact values you need.

That should keep you from accidentally adding too much mana or hp and not leaving enough for everything else.

 

[Pawain]

Id do this on the 760 str one:

Dragons are squishy and need 10 Stam Regen

Saved Planner | uo-cah.com

641 points to put on HP and mana.

Thats a nice flappy

 

[Ning]

Thank you for the fantastic advice. I read the cah mare guide earlier but I never thought to use the builder. I was guessing chic/ai would be the way to go but wasn't really sure. How critical is the full 120 thing? Is there room to wiggle on anything? I'm on a beer budget and not exactly in position to fling gazillions at scrolls if I could even find any. Commerce isn't exactly bustling at home.

I was very fortunate to get these guys. Perks of addicting virtually all my buddies to UO back when. I knew one of them must have one and still remember their password. Unlike my wife that I know has like 3. LoL

 

[Pawain]

Save the points for future scrolls. Full scrolls are 600 points, so leave 700 at the end and put on what you have and put 120s when you get them.

You want the 120 chiv now. Put what you have and add higher ones later. Sell the junk one for scrolls.

The extra 100 points save till the Chiv is near 120 and you are used to playing it. You can then decide if you want it in HP or mana.

You put chiv on them because str and chiv is in the damage formulas, so that will deal the most damage of any pet type.

 

[Ning]

Actually, chiv is the one scroll I do have. I managed to find one for sale I could afford a while back. I suppose it's worth taking my time to do it right. I really appreciate the advice. This "new" system takes a little getting used to.

 

[Turkish]

What shard are you on Ning?

 

[Ning]

I'm on Sonoma

 

[Ang7]

Yea. Save for all 120 scrolls on this.

A maxed 760 str pp ww is rare and you don’t want to lower its value with low level scrolls. Better to save the point than handicap it. Chiv raises the slowest so do that first. You get a nice damage gain from 120 chiv. All the other skills gain super fast anyway.

This pet is probably many many years old. Waiting to fully scroll it is worth the time.

If you really want to have a budget pp ww, use cheap scrolls on that 730 str one until you can afford all 120 scrolls for the 760 str. You will still be very pleased with a 110 scrolled pp ww, but don’t waste a 760 str one by skimping out on its max potential.

 

[Ning]

I think you guys are right and I will get the scrolls. He's worth the investment.I know this one dates back to Renaissance for sure. The guy I got it from wasn't very ballsy and this was one he'd had forever. The skills, sans chiv, are all in the 99's so training to 120 shouldn't take forever.

If this guy becomes the death dealer I hope he can, I probably don't need both. I've got a chiv scroll already. Do you think the lesser one would sell for enough to cover the scroll expense? What would the 730 fella be worth? I'm on Sonoma so whatever would have to take place there so that should likely be a factor.

 

[Ang7]

Scrolls are insanely expensive right now. A full set of 120 scrolls might cost 400-500 mill right now

Unfortunately, I'm not sure the 730 STR would sell for 100mill

 

[Mordha]

Does the one with 730 str eat gold? If no, then that is a 2nd gen WW. The 760 str is most likely a 3rd gen.
Not dissing the 760 str one (I have one too, along with one with 758 str). Just pointing out something that people overlook with PP WW’s.

And unless you are desperate for gold, I’d suggest keeping both! There are many ways to make gold in UO. But PP pets will never come back.

 

[PlayerSkillFTW]

Yep, there are 4 generations of WWs in game.
Gen 1: "Ancients". These refuse to eat gold, roar when commanded (https://uo.stratics.com/hunters/sounds/dragon1.mpg), and have an extremely aggressive AI. Only six "Ancients" are confirmed to still exist in game so far.
Gen 2: "Legacies". These refuse to eat gold, yet grunt when commanded.
Gen 3: "Pre-Patch". These eat gold, grunt when commanded, and could spawn with up to 760 STR at 3 slots (like the previous generations).
Gen 4: "Revamp". These eat gold, grunt when commanded, but spawn with half the minimum STR (360, which is a 3 slot), and are 4 slots when spawning with higher STR.

I have a 760 STR (highest)/80 Cold Resist (lowest) Gen 3 WW, "Grimnoshtadrano", that i messed up on by not giving him Chiv. I built him as Magery+AI shortly after the Pet Revamp came out, before all the data was in about Chiv being superior . I still regret that.
I refuse to level up my Gen 1 WW, "Hades". Prefer to keep him vanilla.

 

[Mordha]

That is a much better explanation then the I gave. On Atlantic, at least, there seems to be this misunderstanding that a PP WW gold eater is something special. I tried to tell one that they had a 3rd gen, but either didn’t believe it or thought I was lying. I was only trying to get them to understand that a gold eater isn’t that rare, but the high str was special.

 

[Ning]

Wow you guys really know your stuff. I just checked them both. The 760 is a gold eating grunter and the 730 is a grunter that doesn't. Interesting bits of knowledge.

 

[celticus]

Wow you guys really know your stuff. I just checked them both. The 760 is a gold eating grunter and the 730 is a grunter that doesn't. Interesting bits of knowledge.

So your 730 one is even older, a Legacy one : Could be valuable to some people just because of the Legacy status..?

 

[kn999]

Yep, there are 4 generations of WWs in game.
Gen 1: "Ancients". These refuse to eat gold, roar when commanded (https://uo.stratics.com/hunters/sounds/dragon1.mpg), and have an extremely aggressive AI. Only six "Ancients" are confirmed to still exist in game so far.
Gen 2: "Legacies". These refuse to eat gold, yet grunt when commanded.
Gen 3: "Pre-Patch". These eat gold, grunt when commanded, and could spawn with up to 760 STR at 3 slots (like the previous generations).
Gen 4: "Revamp". These eat gold, grunt when commanded, but spawn with half the minimum STR (360, which is a 3 slot), and are 4 slots when spawning with higher STR.

I have a 760 STR (highest)/80 Cold Resist (lowest) Gen 3 WW, "Grimnoshtadrano", that i messed up on by not giving him Chiv. I built him as Magery+AI shortly after the Pet Revamp came out, before all the data was in about Chiv being superior . I still regret that.
I refuse to level up my Gen 1 WW, "Hades". Prefer to keep him vanilla.

So how do you know the difference between the roar and grunt because I'm almost positive I have a number 1 WW just checked and I think it roars and I started the game in beta..

 

[Kylie Kinslayer]

So how do you know the difference between the roar and grunt because I'm almost positive I have a number 1 WW.

Roar is basically what Dragons do when commanded. Grunting is a low garbled quick thing... almost like a bass like uhh-hmm

 

[Ang7]

It should sound like what a greater dragon does. Go tame a current white wyrm and a greater dragon. That is the best way to compare.

if it doesn’t eat gold you know you have a gen 1 or gen 2.

that said. I don’t think any has sold a gen one before.

if you are looking for start up gold, there are better ways. But if you do try to sell it, don’t settle. Anything with 750 str and above can sell for close to 250-300mill already.

I think it should be worth way more since very few exist, but my advice would be not to sell it.
What shard are you on?

 

[Kylie Kinslayer]

I don’t think any has sold a gen one before.

if you are looking for start up gold, there are better ways. But if you do try to sell it, don’t settle. Anything with 750 str and above can sell for close to 250-300mill already.

I think it should be worth way more since very few exist, but my advice would be not to sell it.
What shard are you on?

Personally I would not part with an Ancient (Gen 1) if it were me, if that is what it winds up being. However, if I were hard pressed to sell I would not entertain a single offer under 2 plat.. but that is me. Folks would have to pry it from my hands with a substantial offer.

 

[Ang7]

Agreed. If it is gen 1, it is a billion+ Sale.
Don’t sell for less than that. You can’t buy one back later.

 

[Pawain]

Most of the idiots on Atl think the ones that eat gold are the good ones.

 

[Kylie Kinslayer]

Most of the idiots on Atl think the ones that eat gold are the good ones.

Nah... most of those folks are the ones trying to scam people...

just like the folks selling Shadow Wyrms saying they no longer spawn.

 

[PlayerSkillFTW]

There are more Blaze Cus in existence than Gen 1 "Ancient" WWs.

 

[Kylie Kinslayer]

There are more Blaze Cus in existence than Gen 1 "Ancient" WWs.

True, but the Blaze Cu can be seen as such visually by everyone as a status symbol... that same thing can not be said for an ancient. The tabable ratman and a few others though? DIfferent ballgame.

That is why I would personally assign a lesser value on the Ancient WW.

 

[PlayerSkillFTW]

So how do you know the difference between the roar and grunt because I'm almost positive I have a number 1 WW just checked and I think it roars and I started the game in beta..

What shard? We can setup a time, and i can check it out and confirm if it's a Gen 1 "Ancient" WW.