yes, there's a free version, you can log in to your characters right now, if you can remember your passwords. It's called Endless Journey. Obviously there are restrictions. You can't have a house for a start, there's a full list here:
Endless Journey – Ultima Online
How much gold? dunno, I was never 'competitive' in the first place
And yes, there's a bunch of us old troupers hanging on in there, and quite a few who've recently found their way back.
If you show up at WBB between 6pm and 7pm (UK) you'll find a bunch of folk there ready, willing and able to answer questions and help you get back into the swing of things. One of the pages you should most take the time to read is '
money' cos if you don't you'll think someone's nicked it all